Sufu: The Bold, Creamy Soul of Chinese Fermentation
Before we start, let’s clear one thing up: the word sufu doesn’t always mean food.
It can also refer to a wartime Japanese paper-fibre fabric or SUFU, a medical society (Society of Urodynamics, Female Pelvic Medicine & Urogenital Reconstruction).
Here, we’re talking only about the ancient Chinese fermented bean curd — a condiment so creamy, pungent, and layered it’s earned the nickname Chinese cheese.
The First Bite: Love at First Funk
Sufu doesn’t ask for your approval.
It arrives with the swagger of a rock star, the creaminess of brie, and the savoury punch of anchovies — all without a drop of dairy.
Often served with rice porridge, tucked into stir-fry sauces, or spread on bread, sufu is tofu transformed by the slow magic of fermentation into something richer, deeper, and utterly its own.
The Story Behind “Chinese Cheese”
The nickname Chinese cheese isn’t just a cute analogy — it has history, and a twist of irony.
Centuries ago, the Chinese referred to the goat cheese of their nomadic Mongol neighbours as furu, a slightly mocking term meaning “spoiled milk.”
When they perfected their own cheese-like creation from tofu, they reclaimed the word with pride.
The English phrase “Chinese cheese” first appeared in 1916 in the writings of Frank N. Meyer, later popularised by USDA researcher Margaret Church in 1920. It remains the go-to shorthand for curious eaters — but knowing the backstory makes it even better.
How Sufu Is Made: No Western Cheese Is Quite Like It
Sufu’s production is not the same as dairy cheese-making.
It uses a unique two-stage process found in no Western variety:
Tofu Preparation – Soybeans are soaked, ground, cooked, and coagulated into firm tofu.
Mould Ripening (Pehtze Stage) – Cubes are inoculated with edible moulds such as Actinomucor or Mucor. Over a few days, a white mycelium coat develops, breaking down proteins and fats.
Salting – The fuzzy cubes are salted to control microbes and enhance flavour.
Brine Ripening – The salted tofu is submerged in a dressing mixture — usually rice wine, salt, and sometimes spices — and aged for 3–6 months.
This dual ripening — mould first, brine second — creates a smooth, spreadable texture and complex savouriness unmatched by any dairy cheese.
Varieties of Sufu
⚠️ Important Safety Note: Red Sufu
Red sufu owes its colour to red yeast rice, which contains monacolin K — chemically identical to the prescription cholesterol drug lovastatin.
This compound can:
Interact dangerously with alcohol, grapefruit, and certain medications
Cause muscle, liver, or kidney damage in sensitive individuals
Additionally, red yeast rice products may be contaminated with citrinin, a toxin harmful to the kidneys.
If you are on medication, pregnant, breastfeeding, or have liver/kidney concerns, avoid red sufu unless advised by a healthcare professional.
How to Use Sufu in the Kitchen
Treat sufu as a seasoning — potent, concentrated, transformative:
🥄 Spread on bread – A dab on warm, crusty slices
🍜 In congee – The classic, gentle introduction
🔥 In sauces – Blend into vegan cheese or pasta sauce for depth
🥬 In stir-fries – Dissolve in aromatics before adding vegetables
🌶️ In dips – Whip with silken tofu, garlic, and chilli oil
Rose Sufu vs. “Rose Tofu” Dishes
Fermented rose bean curd is a savoury, fermented condiment — not the same as sweet rose-flavoured desserts or rosé wine braises. Mixing them up could ruin a recipe.
The Aroma: Proof of Life
Like blue cheese or miso, sufu’s aroma is a sign of its journey — a promise of savouriness, not a warning to stay away.
Storage Tips
Keep sealed in the fridge
Always use clean utensils
A jar lasts for months — one cube flavours an entire dish
Why Sufu Deserves Your Attention
Sufu is not tofu with a twist — it’s tofu reborn.
It carries centuries of craft, a unique fermentation method, and a flavour profile that can elevate plant-based cooking to new heights.
Start here: mash white sufu with silken tofu, sesame oil, and garlic for a silky, umami-rich dip. From there, let your curiosity lead.